sorta_i_classificaczia_piva:barley_wine
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| sorta_i_classificaczia_piva:barley_wine [2014/03/28 06:41] – создано cocademon | sorta_i_classificaczia_piva:barley_wine [2014/03/28 13:08] (текущий) – cocademon | ||
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| - | Источник: http:// | + | Оригинал |
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| + | ====== Barleywine ====== | ||
| + | < | ||
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| + | // | ||
| + | //Issue: January/ | ||
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| + | **Barleywine is beer, not wine. Beyond that, the definition can get a bit fuzzy. One thing’s for sure, however, and that’s that it takes some skill to brew a good one. Learn how to handle all that malt and get the proper amount of attenuation in your own barleywine. Plus: three big recipes.** | ||
| - | Barleywine | ||
| - | Author: | ||
| - | Issue: January/ | ||
| - | Barleywine is beer, not wine. Beyond that, the definition can get a bit fuzzy. One thing’s for sure, however, and that’s that it takes some skill to brew a good one. Learn how to handle all that malt and get the proper amount of attenuation in your own barleywine. Plus: three big recipes. | ||
| Saturday night in a pub in South London and I'm drinking a pint of Youngs Bitter with my friends. It's the first beer I've ever bought in a pub, because now I'm eighteen and it's legal for me to drink in public. But not everybody is drinking pints of draught beer, for an older character who stands in a corner at the end of the bar has just ordered a bottle. Not an ordinary bottle either, because it is tiny; and the contents are poured by the barman into a small goblet, not a normal straight-sided glass. I thought it must be some kind of exotic spirit, which would be weird because we didn't do exotic in South London in those days. When the barman came our way, I asked him what this mysterious fluid could be. He told me it was a sort of strong beer, which was why it came in a small bottle, known as a " | Saturday night in a pub in South London and I'm drinking a pint of Youngs Bitter with my friends. It's the first beer I've ever bought in a pub, because now I'm eighteen and it's legal for me to drink in public. But not everybody is drinking pints of draught beer, for an older character who stands in a corner at the end of the bar has just ordered a bottle. Not an ordinary bottle either, because it is tiny; and the contents are poured by the barman into a small goblet, not a normal straight-sided glass. I thought it must be some kind of exotic spirit, which would be weird because we didn't do exotic in South London in those days. When the barman came our way, I asked him what this mysterious fluid could be. He told me it was a sort of strong beer, which was why it came in a small bottle, known as a " | ||
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| I do not see a reason for two separate specifications other than for competition purposes. As far as we are concerned, I'll give a somewhat broader range of starting gravities, and even color (for reasons I'll explain later). This will give a wide spectrum of beers falling under this designation, | I do not see a reason for two separate specifications other than for competition purposes. As far as we are concerned, I'll give a somewhat broader range of starting gravities, and even color (for reasons I'll explain later). This will give a wide spectrum of beers falling under this designation, | ||
| - | Brewing Barleywine | + | ===== Brewing Barleywine |
| The first question to answer for an all-grain brewer is how much do I want to make? That's because the size of your mash tun is the crucial factor with a beer that requires so much malt. If your set-up is for brewing 5.0 gallons (19 L) of " | The first question to answer for an all-grain brewer is how much do I want to make? That's because the size of your mash tun is the crucial factor with a beer that requires so much malt. If your set-up is for brewing 5.0 gallons (19 L) of " | ||
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| By far the simplest approach to brewing these big beers is to extract brew, because you can reach target gravity without long boiling this way. Further, if you hold back one-half to one-third of the extract and add it towards the end of the boil, you can achieve adequate hop utilization when boiling less than the full volume of wort. A short boil can be a problem though; because the beer will have less caramel flavor. So you might want to consider using some specialty grains, such as crystal malt or Special B. | By far the simplest approach to brewing these big beers is to extract brew, because you can reach target gravity without long boiling this way. Further, if you hold back one-half to one-third of the extract and add it towards the end of the boil, you can achieve adequate hop utilization when boiling less than the full volume of wort. A short boil can be a problem though; because the beer will have less caramel flavor. So you might want to consider using some specialty grains, such as crystal malt or Special B. | ||
| - | Ingredients | + | ===== Ingredients |
| Classically, | Classically, | ||
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| If you want hop aroma and flavor, you can achieve this in the normal manner by late or post-boil additions. A slightly different flavor will be obtained if you dry-hop in the fermenter, but this is often the best way to get hop character into the beer; Amarillo, or perhaps Columbus should work well in this. Whichever way you go, reckon on adding up to twice the amount you might normally use, or the flavor can easily get lost in all the maltiness. | If you want hop aroma and flavor, you can achieve this in the normal manner by late or post-boil additions. A slightly different flavor will be obtained if you dry-hop in the fermenter, but this is often the best way to get hop character into the beer; Amarillo, or perhaps Columbus should work well in this. Whichever way you go, reckon on adding up to twice the amount you might normally use, or the flavor can easily get lost in all the maltiness. | ||
| - | Fermentation | + | ===== Fermentation |
| A good level of attenuation is everything in the successful brewing of barleywine; if you can't achieve that, all you will have is alcoholic syrup. At the lower end of the OG range, a good ale yeast such as the Whitbread strain, or even an Irish ale yeast can be made to work well. For higher starting gravities, a yeast strain specifically selected to handle them, such as White Labs WLP007 (Dry English Ale) yeast is preferable, but I have had best results with Trappist ale yeast, such as White Labs WLP500 (Trappist Ale) or Wyeast 1214 (Belgian Ale) yeast. If you are seeking to avoid fruity esters, as much as is possible in a high-gravity ale, White Labs WLP001 (California Ale), Wyeast 1056 (American Ale) or Safale US-05 yeast is a good choice. | A good level of attenuation is everything in the successful brewing of barleywine; if you can't achieve that, all you will have is alcoholic syrup. At the lower end of the OG range, a good ale yeast such as the Whitbread strain, or even an Irish ale yeast can be made to work well. For higher starting gravities, a yeast strain specifically selected to handle them, such as White Labs WLP007 (Dry English Ale) yeast is preferable, but I have had best results with Trappist ale yeast, such as White Labs WLP500 (Trappist Ale) or Wyeast 1214 (Belgian Ale) yeast. If you are seeking to avoid fruity esters, as much as is possible in a high-gravity ale, White Labs WLP001 (California Ale), Wyeast 1056 (American Ale) or Safale US-05 yeast is a good choice. | ||
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| When pitching, pour off most of the liquid from the starter and add to the wort, which should be thoroughly oxygenated for 3–4 minutes. Pitching is probably best done when the wort is at 70–75 °F (21–24 °C), which is a good temperature to maintain throughout fermentation to ensure high attenuation. If this results in some ester formation, it does not matter, for that will be just a little more variety in an already complex beer. | When pitching, pour off most of the liquid from the starter and add to the wort, which should be thoroughly oxygenated for 3–4 minutes. Pitching is probably best done when the wort is at 70–75 °F (21–24 °C), which is a good temperature to maintain throughout fermentation to ensure high attenuation. If this results in some ester formation, it does not matter, for that will be just a little more variety in an already complex beer. | ||
| - | Post-Fermentation | + | ===== Post-Fermentation |
| Give the beer a secondary fermentation for up to a month before bottling, and make sure that fermentation has ceased before doing so. Ideally, after secondary keep it in a stainless steel soda keg and either serve it from there, or carbonate it in the keg then bottle it, using a counter-pressure filler. If you don't carbonate it this way, don't prime before bottling, but add some fresh yeast, bearing in mind that there may be little extra fermentation, | Give the beer a secondary fermentation for up to a month before bottling, and make sure that fermentation has ceased before doing so. Ideally, after secondary keep it in a stainless steel soda keg and either serve it from there, or carbonate it in the keg then bottle it, using a counter-pressure filler. If you don't carbonate it this way, don't prime before bottling, but add some fresh yeast, bearing in mind that there may be little extra fermentation, | ||
| - | Conclusion | + | ===== Conclusion |
| The very elusiveness of this style gives you lots of opportunity to experiment. Barleywine is not an easy beer to brew, but if you do it well you will be rewarded. Because it is so high in alcohol you'll sip it rather than drink it and as you do you will enjoy its warmth and complexity. Keep some bottles aside and taste one or two each year over a period, and see just how it changes with time. It is not a beer you will produce often, but it makes a very good once a year special. | The very elusiveness of this style gives you lots of opportunity to experiment. Barleywine is not an easy beer to brew, but if you do it well you will be rewarded. Because it is so high in alcohol you'll sip it rather than drink it and as you do you will enjoy its warmth and complexity. Keep some bottles aside and taste one or two each year over a period, and see just how it changes with time. It is not a beer you will produce often, but it makes a very good once a year special. | ||
| - | Barleywine Recipes | + | ===== Barleywine Recipes |
| HARD HAT BARLEYWINE | HARD HAT BARLEYWINE | ||
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| (3 gallons/11 L, all-grain) | (3 gallons/11 L, all-grain) | ||
| OG = 1.084 FG = 1.025 | OG = 1.084 FG = 1.025 | ||
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| Ingredients | Ingredients | ||
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| 10.5 lb (4.8 kg) Muntons 2-row pale malt | 10.5 lb (4.8 kg) Muntons 2-row pale malt | ||
| 14 AAU Magnum hops (90 mins) (1.0 oz./28 g at 14% alpha acids) | 14 AAU Magnum hops (90 mins) (1.0 oz./28 g at 14% alpha acids) | ||
| Строка 67: | Строка 79: | ||
| Step by Step | Step by Step | ||
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| Mash in at 148–150 °F (64–65.6 °C), using about 1.2–1.4 quarts (4.5–5.3 L) of water per pound of grain. After 90 minutes, run off the first 2.0 gallons (7.6 L) and set aside; these should have an SG of 1.070–1.080 (17.1–19.3 °P). Sparge to collect a further 4–5 gallons (15–19 L), but no more. Measure the total volume and SG of the second wort. Calculate total gravity by multiplying the volume of each wort times its gravity (in " | Mash in at 148–150 °F (64–65.6 °C), using about 1.2–1.4 quarts (4.5–5.3 L) of water per pound of grain. After 90 minutes, run off the first 2.0 gallons (7.6 L) and set aside; these should have an SG of 1.070–1.080 (17.1–19.3 °P). Sparge to collect a further 4–5 gallons (15–19 L), but no more. Measure the total volume and SG of the second wort. Calculate total gravity by multiplying the volume of each wort times its gravity (in " | ||
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| IRON GLOVE BARLEYWINE | IRON GLOVE BARLEYWINE | ||
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| (3 gallons/11 L, extract with grains) | (3 gallons/11 L, extract with grains) | ||
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| OG = 1.099 FG = 1.035 | OG = 1.099 FG = 1.035 | ||
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| IBU = 80 SRM = 28 ABV = 8.5% | IBU = 80 SRM = 28 ABV = 8.5% | ||
| Ingredients | Ingredients | ||
| - | 8.0 lb (3.6 kg) Muntons light liquid malt extract | + | |
| - | 1.0 lb (0.45 kg) crystal malt (20 °L) | + | * 8.0 lb (3.6 kg) Muntons light liquid malt extract |
| - | 17 AAU Amarillo hops (90 mins) (2.0 oz/56 g at 8% alpha acids) | + | |
| - | 1.0 oz. (28 g) Amarillo hops (0 mins) | + | |
| - | 2.0 oz (56 g) Amarillo hops (dry hop in secondary) | + | |
| - | 1⁄2 tsp. Irish moss | + | |
| - | White Labs WLP007 (Dry English Ale) or Wyeast 1214 (Belgian Abbey) yeast (2–4 qt./2–4 L yeast starter) | + | |
| + | | ||
| Step by Step | Step by Step | ||
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| Heat 0.5 gallons (1.9 L) water to around 170 °F (77 °C), and add the crystal malt; keep at this temperature for 30 minutes, then strain out the grains. Add water to a total of 3.5 gallons (13 L) and carefully dissolve 4.0 lb. (1.8 kg) of the malt extract, bring to a boil and add the bittering hops. After 1 hour, turn off the heat and very carefully dissolve the remainder of the malt extract. Then turn on the heat and boil for a final 15 minutes, adding Irish moss for the last 10 minutes, and the flavor hops when you turn off the heat. Cool wort and transfer to fermenter. Aerate wort and pitch yeast from yeast starter(s). Ferment and mature as described in the all-grain recipe. Add the dry hops to the secondary, using a sterilized, weighted muslin bag, and remove on racking to the stainless steel keg, proceeding from there as above for maturation. | Heat 0.5 gallons (1.9 L) water to around 170 °F (77 °C), and add the crystal malt; keep at this temperature for 30 minutes, then strain out the grains. Add water to a total of 3.5 gallons (13 L) and carefully dissolve 4.0 lb. (1.8 kg) of the malt extract, bring to a boil and add the bittering hops. After 1 hour, turn off the heat and very carefully dissolve the remainder of the malt extract. Then turn on the heat and boil for a final 15 minutes, adding Irish moss for the last 10 minutes, and the flavor hops when you turn off the heat. Cool wort and transfer to fermenter. Aerate wort and pitch yeast from yeast starter(s). Ferment and mature as described in the all-grain recipe. Add the dry hops to the secondary, using a sterilized, weighted muslin bag, and remove on racking to the stainless steel keg, proceeding from there as above for maturation. | ||
| Dunkleosteus (English-style Barleywine) by Chris Colby | Dunkleosteus (English-style Barleywine) by Chris Colby | ||
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| (5 gallons/19 L, all-grain with supplemental extract) | (5 gallons/19 L, all-grain with supplemental extract) | ||
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| OG = 1.122 FG = 1.026 | OG = 1.122 FG = 1.026 | ||
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| IBU = 51 SRM = 15 ABV = 12.4% | IBU = 51 SRM = 15 ABV = 12.4% | ||
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| Ingredients | Ingredients | ||
| - | 14.0 lbs (6.4 kg) British pale ale malt (Maris Otter) | + | |
| - | 0.66 lbs. (0.30 kg) English crystal malt (60 °L) | + | * 14.0 lbs (6.4 kg) British pale ale malt (Maris Otter) |
| - | 3.5 lbs. (1.6 kg) Muntons Light dried malt extract | + | |
| - | 2.0 lbs. (0.91 kg) sucrose (or invert sugar) | + | |
| - | 1⁄4 tsp. yeast nutrients | + | |
| - | 1 tsp. Irish moss | + | |
| - | 15 AAU East Kent Goldings hops (60 mins) (3.0 oz./85 g of 5.0% alpha acids) | + | |
| - | 2.5 AAU Fuggles hops (20 mins) (0.5 oz./14 g of 5.0% alpha acids) | + | |
| - | 0.33 oz./9.4 g Fuggles hops (0 mins) | + | |
| - | Wyeast 1968 (London ESB) or White Labs WLP002 (English Ale) yeast (4 qt./~4 L yeast starter) | + | |
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| Step by Step | Step by Step | ||
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| Mash grains at 152 °F (66 °C) for 1 hour. Mash out to 168 °F (76 °C). Recirculate the wort for 20 minutes. Runoff wort, sparging with water hot enough to keep grain bed temperature just under 170 °F (77 °C). Collect about 7.0 gallons (26 L) of wort and boil down to 5 gallons | Mash grains at 152 °F (66 °C) for 1 hour. Mash out to 168 °F (76 °C). Recirculate the wort for 20 minutes. Runoff wort, sparging with water hot enough to keep grain bed temperature just under 170 °F (77 °C). Collect about 7.0 gallons (26 L) of wort and boil down to 5 gallons | ||
| (19 L). Add dried malt extract with 30 minutes left in boil. Add hops according to the schedule given in the recipe. Add Irish moss with 15 minutes remaining in the boil. After the boil, chill the wort to 68 °F (20 °C), aerate well and pitch sediment from yeast starter. Let ferment at 68 °F (20 °C). Rack to secondary, add sugar and yeast nutrient and let sit for two weeks at 65–68 °F (18–20 °C). If possible, bulk condition at 40–45 °F (4.4–7.2 °C) for two to three months. Bottle or keg, minimizing any splashing or other aeration of the beer. | (19 L). Add dried malt extract with 30 minutes left in boil. Add hops according to the schedule given in the recipe. Add Irish moss with 15 minutes remaining in the boil. After the boil, chill the wort to 68 °F (20 °C), aerate well and pitch sediment from yeast starter. Let ferment at 68 °F (20 °C). Rack to secondary, add sugar and yeast nutrient and let sit for two weeks at 65–68 °F (18–20 °C). If possible, bulk condition at 40–45 °F (4.4–7.2 °C) for two to three months. Bottle or keg, minimizing any splashing or other aeration of the beer. | ||
| - | Terry Foster is a frequent contributor to Brew Your Own. | + | //Terry Foster is a frequent contributor to Brew Your Own.// |
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| + | [[sorta_i_classificaczia_piva: | ||
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